The typical Vee'd space on a tapered alloy mast, is what jams many sails, especially when non-rotating The other thing is to specify a hard bolt rope that's not easily compressed. One is to run this in a tube, such that the contact is as square to the sail as possible. Secrets for the bolt rope groove are two-fold. Perhaps you can help close the gap on this. QUES: A sailmaker from Hyde Sails - Germany, also recommends a luff groove for my new wing mast, but I am nervous about ending up with an untested set up without personal experience with such an arrangement.
Say on average, 2-3 secs per meter of luff, with the upper part faster as the roll increases in diameter and the friction falls. In fact, I typically need to pass the fall of the halyard either between my legs or under a foot, as otherwise the sail actually 'comes down too fast'. If not previously reefed, it furls while lowering, and very easily too. When you store the sail do you lower it first and then roll it or do you furl (roll) while lowering? That you have your sail furled on the boom at first, use the pre-feeder for hoisting but do the reefing without furling the boom. I have a video of this ‘somewhere’ so if I find it, I will post a link here.
#Furling main clew hieght series#
Personally, on the W17, I use a snubbing winch mounted below the mast to hold the tension while I sit astride the main beam and pull the halyard away from the mast in a series of hoists.
#Furling main clew hieght plus#
due to sail and batten weigh plus some inevitable resistance at the feeder. Hoisting IS a heavier load than lowering though. Then, when I sail again, I simply re-hoist the sail and IF I do not need a reef, I just remove the shockcord from the clips, re-feed the bolt rope into my SeaSure roller feeder and hoist the sail. I leave the lower sail in a roll with the shockcord and just roll up the upper part on top, and finally throw the cover over the whole sail and boom. is no harder than any other 'wrapping up of the sail'. But re-rolling the sail around the boom after being reefed. But on the W17, that would affect access to the deck hatch. Typically (like on the W19 & W22), the mast tiller points forward and then has control lines P&S, so any reefing issues are totally independent and unaffected by the tiller. And one needs to detach the line from the mast tiller also. QUES: I imagine that it might be quite a job to lower the sail and then roll it back on the boom. Never needed either a wet or dry suit, but to be fair, I've also stopped sailing below 10C ) Vertical spray implies higher boat resistance and it’s also what makes you wet !! So the W17 is surprisingly dry, even at speed. and what there is, goes horizontal - far less vertical than on most vee'd hull boats at a similar speed.
Incidentally, while looking at this, please note how little spray there is from these hulls. In this 2 minute video of the W17 scooting along with 1 reef, the sail was rolled down under the shock cord and lays very neat above the boom. I have managed to occasionally lash the tiller line around a furled W17 sail, but it's not ideal and would probably damage the sail in that area over many uses as the load on the tiller line can be very high. So YES for my W19 and W22, but NO for the W17. Yes, but only if the mast tiller control line is not attached to the boom. QUES: On some Farrier boats, I see they reef while furling (rolling) the sail back on the boom. Better than nothing for sure, but furling is neater with less sail abrasion. Yes, lazy jacks are the common solution without boom furling and I had this on 'Magic Hempel'. At the moment I use lazy jacks that work if pulled in enough to hold the unused part of the sail, but do not always work well so need to be frequently adjusted. QUES: Been reading your Reefing article, and like your idea of using a shock chord. QUESTIONS: from Farrier racer and composite boatbuilder … from Andrew-J, West Germany
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